On this page we will reproduce articles from the Newsletter describing ideas for rigging and boat handling. These articles will change from time to time so watch this space!
Have you ever considered how you would lift one of your crew who fell overboard up into your Mariner?
As a safety issue, this question is currently being asked by the Mariner Class Association. The same question was raised by a concerned husband for his somewhat 'queen' sized wife while I was giving them both sailing lessons at Narrasketuck YC a few years ago. If you think about it, for most of us, helping an adult who is in the water to climb back into a Mariner is a near impossible task without some type of ladder or lifting device.
There are rigid boat ladders with big loops that can be hung over the side gunnels. I had one of these many years ago but while in storage, the ladder always seemed to be in the way. Also, the low gunnels of the Mariner made it tend to bend and pull away (or pop off) while stepping on the lower step, or even float away when not watching it.
So I built one out of some 2X4's, PVC pipe, and ½" line. It works perfectly, is very strong, can be used anyplace on the Mariner, folds for easy storage; and weighs only a few pounds. I took a few pictures of it while my Mariner was in dry dock.
The three step ladder hangs off side of Mariner. PVC pipe helps to keep the shape of ladder, also, it simplified the construction
The ladder folds for flexible storage. The top two steps are padded and somewhat 'U' shaped.
The ladder can be attached anyplace to the Mariner. Side placement is shown; rear or front is also possible. The line attachment serves a few purposes, not only does it hold the ladder, it can be used to pull on while climbing into the boat, and secures it to the boat as a hand hold while in the water.
It was time to flip the boat and finally remove all of the old layers of bottom paint and repair the gouges.
I did all of the following work, in my driveway with no special equipment and no football team members for lifting.
The first task is to remove everything from the boat. So, assuming that all rigging and spars are already off, the next big piece is the centerboard.
The centerboard is about 170 pounds of cast iron and is very awkward to handle. However, dropping the centerboard is relatively simple. If there is enough room between the trailer supports for the entire board to be lowered to the ground it is very easy. My trailer did not have the necessary spacing. I set up a support under the stern of the boat so that I could slide the boat backward on the trailer about six feet. Cement blocks and 2 each six-foot 2x6 timbers worked out fine. One 2x6 bends a bit so I recommend two. Then I tied the stern cleats to a tree, using strong, non-stretch line and hooked up the van to the trailer. Disconnect the winch strap from the bow eye. Sliding the trailer out from under the boat goes very easily (if you remember to close the cockpit bailers, oops!). Once the boat has moved the necessary distance, set the parking brake and leave the trailer attached while working in the boat. The trailer acts as the front support and the 2x6 bridge as the aft. Remove the centerboard bolt and lower the centerboard to the ground. Cut the wire. Untie the stern lines and winch the boat back onto the trailer.
I had decided to place the boat in my garage so I could work throughout the winter. Therefore I made a cradle with wheels so I could roll it into the garage. I used an eight-foot 4x4 for each side, with two six-foot 2x6 timbers, together on top of the 4x4, to form the cradle. I ordered swivel wheels from Northern, an equipment catalog company for $6 each. They are rated for 1,000 pounds each. On the forward 2x6s, I placed a 4x4 about 4 feet long, to end up under the cabin roof, clear of all deck hardware and the mast step, to protect the jib blocks on the cabin roof. I stacked about five 2x6 timbers across the 4x4s to catch both sides of the cockpit coaming about seven feet aft of the forward 2x6s.
The next step is to flip the boat. Once again, remove everything from the boat. On the open model Mariner (1965 to 1967), remove all of the lead ballast from under the floorboards in the cabin as well as the floorboards. A note for all Mariner racers, my boat had 25 five-pound lead ingots under the floorboards, in addition to the six I had placed above the boards and the car battery, so no more cracks about meeting the rules. Be sure to replace the mast support pole before you flip the boat. p> And now, get ready for the flip. It went easily. Ginette, my wife, Emma, my mother-in-law, Ray, my brother-in-law and I did all of the rolling. (Once the lead is out from under the floorboards, it is much easier to roll!) We slid the boat off of the trailer and onto the lawn. We placed the cradle next to the boat and rolled the boat over onto the cradle. We did place a 4x4 and a cushion so that the rub rail did not come into contact with the ground. Once over and on the cradle, Ray and I held up the appropriate end of the boat to position the timbers for balance.
That's it. The whole rig has been rolled into the garage and is waiting for me to get to work.
